Namdaemun Gate, Finally Open After ~100 Years
Closed since 1907, the path through Namdaemun gate (aka Sungnyemun or Great South Gate) finally reopened on Friday. When the occupying Japanese began the modernization of Seoul the gate was closed down and the adjoinging city walls were removed. These walls had originally protected the city, but were at that point a relic as the city had expanded beyond them.
Below are two views of Namdaemun with people actually walking though it. As it had been closed for the past 100 years, I began to wonder how many westerners had actually passed through this gate. Since most foreigners were repelled from Korea up until the Japanese occupation, I can assume that as of now I'm one of only a handful of westerners to have ever passed through the gate. Ok, not a big deal, but interesting to ponder nonetheless. The third photo shows Seoul salarymen making their way home past the gate, which has traditionally been closed for the evening.
I'm not sure about the history of the ceiling mural, but as it is weathered I expect that it would be at least 100 years old. Some of the paint has come off showing patches of a previous mural.
Here are some historical Namdaemun gate photos, with the oldest on the left. The photo on the far right shows the improvements made by the Japanese, with the electrical wiring and the street car, but also shows that they laid way too much concrete. Namdaemun also appears open in this photo, so it had to have been taken shorty before it's closure.
Namdaemun from a crosswalk near City Hall. As you can see I didn't have a lot time for this shot. I also have another night scene of Namdaemun that I have added to the random banners.

Comments
Since most foreigners were repelled from Korea up until the Japanese occupation, I can assume that as of now I'm one of only a handful of westerners to have ever passed through the gate.
I hate to burst your bubble, but I don't think this is the case. In the mid-1990s, there were some stories in the local press that said, in essence, the number of foreigners residing in Seoul 100 years earlier was more than the number of foreigners at that time in the mid-1990s (1995 or 1997).
Posted by: kushibo | March 4, 2006 4:51 PM
100 years ago there were a ton more Japanese living here, and perhaps other Asians as well. But as far as westerners are concerned, I don't think you've burst my bubble. :D They were even fewer and further between, especially if you consider today's US military presense.
Posted by: Max Watson
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March 4, 2006 4:59 PM
Hey, nice shots. I particularly like the one at dusk with the "glowing" gate - about perfect timing, as far as I can tell. And the businessmen in suits in the foreground just make it even "more Korea" somehow.
Posted by: G | March 5, 2006 8:55 AM
Hallo max..............
You had slipped after little ............ is that a good musical life in Seoul.. intends on jazz and blues
Exists the jazzclub, which music plays most
/ Flamingo
Posted by: Len Carlström-Flamingo | March 5, 2006 4:02 PM
Ah, you're the Max Watson who helped me make up my mind on what type of digital camera to buy. Just want to thank you for your inputs. Of course, once my wife sees the pricetag, she may feel differently than I. Heh.
Posted by: Nomad | March 5, 2006 8:00 PM
I think Kushibo is likely correct about the number of westerners in Seoul prior to the Japanese takeover. Keep in mind that the period 1883-1907 is quite a long time - 24 years. Considering the number of countries Korea had established diplomatic relations with in that time, it's likely several hundred foreigners would have passed through that gate before it closed. Robert Neff's series of articles for the Korea Times look at the (primarily western) foreign community in Korea, and especially Seoul, at that time.
Also, I'm intrigued by that historical photo on the right with all the concrete, showing the gate still open and all those multi-storey brick buildings. Especially if you look at the top two photos on this site, which were taken in 1904 (and this photo, which was taken ca. 1900 from Namdaemun's balcony).
Were the walls torn down, the small houses razed, the entire area paved, and several multi-storey buildings built in the space of just 3 years? Or is that photo from a later date, when the passageway through Namdaemun was still open?
Posted by: Bulgasari
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March 7, 2006 4:45 AM
Hey Max,
I like the shots, and the little commentary you put in. A
suggestion though, make your articles longer. Not cause they are too short, but because I like them :) Anyway keep up the great work.
-Sky
Posted by: Sky | March 7, 2006 4:15 PM
I think that a lot of people seem to have forgotten that the street cars used to pass through the gate - considering that at times these were operated by Western engineers from California and the Wild West (Hence the name the California Men) - I would suggest that there were many Westerners that passed through these gates either on foot or on the street cars.
Robert Neff
Posted by: robert neff | June 5, 2006 4:31 PM